Happy Valentine's Day!

A lovely little bite by Ted Kooser, my favorite poet laureate...

The Celery Heart

CELERY HEARTS: 98 CENTS
—Placard at Hinky Dinky

Surely it misses those long fly balls of light
its leaves once leapt to catch, or longs to run
its roots out into the salty darkness.

What once looked like a Roman fountain
is now a ruin of fallen columns
bedded on ice. Its only consolations are,

at regular intervals, the hiss of mist,
and at times the warm and reassuring squeeze
of passing hand. But better this, by far,

than to be the sullen heart of artichoke,
stripped of its knives and heavy armor
and mummified for eons in a jar of brine.

Updates and partial review of M5468

Sadly, no update on the sewing lessons just yet...I was laid up with the flu last week and missed the fitting class and I simply haven't had time to type up the tutorial completely for the skirt sloper. It's a work in progress and will be coming (hopefully) in the next week.

But, change is afoot at Chez Rosanne. New job (two!), new dress (umm, not quite one), new red leather bag (of course!), and lots and lots of fantasies brought on by fashion week reports. Onward with the updates:

Over the past two weeks, I have been slowly constructing McCall's 5468. Sadly, my draft was not what I would consider "successful" in the fullest meaning of the word. Was it a dress? Yes. Could I wear it without fear of exposing bits and pieces? Yes. Did it flatter? In a word: no. Part of this can be attributed to user error. I believe I managed to cut the bodice pieces while there was tension on the fabric so they were about 3/4" shy of comfortable. Even though I realized my error while marking my pattern pieces, I decided to forge ahead and see what happened. However, both the front and back skirts are gathered at the waist. I do have a little junk in my trunk so typically, gathering is not the best look for me. Despite the fact that I am wise to the Big 4 and their generous ease, I still ended up with a waist band that can stand to be taken in another 2 inches, at a minimum, once it's in the proper place (my waist line). In it's current state, it looks very much like a sack with sleeves. Heidi Klum I am not, therefore I like to steer clear of sacks which, in general, do nothing for my figure. My mind's eye had it close to the Michael Kor's dress Beyonce wore and the Hot Patterns Cosmopolitan from last year. Cidell and Christina had beautiful versions of this dress. I may just have to give in and cough up the $20 for the Hot Patterns dress...

The blog silence of the last two weeks was two fold: new job and the flu. The first job was something of a bust - temp-to-hire at a large bank but the commute was killing me. An hour each way in the worst kind of traffic you can imagine - for just 17 miles! It's easy to forget how much you detest traffic when you don't have to deal with it. Well. After being on extended vacation jobless for while, I admit it was not the easiest transition. I ended up getting the worst case of the flu - sicker than I've been in the past 10 years - that actually kept me from last week's sewing class! I missed the fitting and lining! What to do, what do to?

Well, tomorrow I start a new, full-time professional job back with my old company. They called last week and asked to hire me back. Admittedly, they caught me at a ripe moment, delirious as I was from lack of sleep and road rage. How could I refuse a 15 minute (breezy) commute, gym on campus, working with my only best friends in the valley, and a better comp package? I'm only human, after all.

And, because moms make everything better (mine is especially talented in this regard), I opened the door to discover a package containing a gorgeous gift: a beautiful red leather tote bag! This bag deserves a post all of its own so I'll save the slavering description for when I can take a photo. It's incredibly unique and I can't wait to share it with you all!

As for Fashion Week in NYC, have you seen some of the styles?? Some are amazing and some not so much. Highlights for me were from the Calvin Klein collection; somewhat severe but still really compelling. I am really happy that we are moving away from the trapeze silhouette of last season and coming back toward a more natural look. Lots of inspirational looks out there. It seems that we are still working through the pains of the 80s and marching towards the 90s. And I'm sure that I speak for many when I say: Let us just pray that the belly shirts and high waisted jeans don't come back...

Until next time!

Sewing Class, Part 1a

I was going to call this post Part 2 of the sewing class, but then I started typing. This week, we made the front half of a skirt sloper. Prof. S- provided us with loose instructions and a diagram sheet for the complete skirt but in class we only covered the front half before he decided class was over. So, yesterday I decided I was going to finish my skirt sloper on my own, 'cause I'm independent like that you know? I managed to do the front half, create my hip curve, two darts, side seam, etc, but the back just eluded me. The placement of the darts and then the "trueing" of the back waist were just not explained at all on the sheet (meant to be filled in with great class notes, I suppose) so I just winged it Burda style. I then cut out my pattern and got to work creating a muslin on some cheapo depot fabric. Well. It was not pretty. Serious instruction for the back half is needed, to say the least.

On a really positive note, he helped with the fit of the Forever Fur jacket! He pointed out I have to increase the French dart on the left half first. Then, in order to attach the lining, I'll have to release the facing extensions from the shoulder seams (I tacked them down thinking this was the the thing to do). I expect to have the jacket completely finished and wearable this weekend. Perhaps the gods of winter will smile on the Valley and bless us with some fur wearing weather...

Next week we are supposed to finish the sloper, cut the fabric, lining and make the skirt. Prof. S- is to help tweak fit issues as well. So, I'll leave it to you dear readers...Do you want the front half now on its own or the complete deal next week?

Pattern Review: Hot Pattern's Nairobi Bag, or how avoid too much of a good thing...

Anyone who knows me will attest to my fixation with any garment/accessory of red leather. Mostly, I think it's a good thing and I have a few signature pieces that friends and family will always associate with me and being cool/interesting. On the other hand, it's a weakness that has lead me to some fashion choices that required intervention. We all have our kryptonite; mine is cranberry colored leather. Jackets, pants, shoes, bags, bracelets...you name it, if it's red leather, chances are I spent at least 20 minutes trying to talk myself out of buying it. I have accepted that this is my signature color.

Now, with that being said, I wanted to share my latest clothing purchase: the Red Leather 3/4 length coat. It's pretty awesome: vintage without being dated, interesting details, fantastic cut, still fairly supple but could probably use conditioning, and well, it's red and leather. It set me back a cool $24.50 + tax, so I didn't even have to make a show of talking myself out buying it.


Recently, I also decided I needed a portfolio. When I decided this, I was thinking some sort of dark brown pleather job with those little metal corners. You know the kind that you find in your neighborhood drug store next to the index cards? This is what I fully expected to leave Staples with the other day on my way to an interview. Imagine my surprise and delight to find that not only could I purchase one in leather but also in my signature color. How cool is that?! And, it was a very affordable $20 for a letter sized portfolio with a folder and little business card inserts, etc. It's a nice little accessory. Look how nicely it coordinates with my bag :) One could almost think they were made for each other...
So, when I went to my sewing class the other day, I grabbed my coat and bag and just before I slipped out the door, it occured to me that it would be prudent to bring something to take notes. Sitting right there on the counter is my portfolio, so off it went with me to class. Only as I was sitting in class did it occur to me that was an awful lot of red leather on my person. I also had on some red leather flats, you see. It was kind of enough to make me fearful of becoming the "one who wore all the red leather," but not in a good way. You see, I am aware it is possible to have too much of a good thing and then become ridiculous.

Clearly I should have worn a black handbag instead. However, I don't have a black handbag. Part of the problem with loving red leather is being sorely unimpressed by other colors. Hence the dearth of black bags in my wardrobe. Dude, I even have red luggage. The only option was to make what I needed, which leads me to...

Pattern Review: Hot Patterns' Nairobi Bag

Pattern Description:
From Hot Patterns: This super-stylish bag is inspired by the fabulous YSL Mombassa bag, a must-have for every fashionista. this bag is perfect for those luxe smaller pieces of fabric you have in your stash...This is a variation on a classic tote bag, so it's open at the top but has an optional snap or magnetic closure strap inside. the bag also features optional inside phone & zipped pickets, and classic handbag feet on the bottom.

Pattern Sizing:
Full sized it's on the larger end, roughly 15" across. I opted to shrink the pattern 50% and emerged with a bag that is about 8x6," small but not still roomy enough to handle my essentials. As I made it, it's too small for a shoulder bag but just right to hang on the forearm. The strap is on the smallish side, but this could be lengthened if you want to wear it on the shoulder.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I would say that it did! I think the lines of the bag are quite elegant yet very fashion forward.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
I would call them adequate. Better than Burda WoF, but not quite as comprehensive as Kwik Sew or Simplicity. They are more "suggestions" than directions. For example, they tell you that you'll have to ease the bag fronts to the bottom piece but don't tell you how. It's assumed you can do this step on your own.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
As I said above, it's a classic bag. I am really digging that I was able to shrink it to fit my needs. I'm not one who carries a whole lot around, just the wallet, lipstick, and tissues.

Fabric Used:
I used a black microfiber that has been in my stash since 2006's clearance sale at Joann's. I think it was 0.50/yd, so I bought what was left on the bolt, maybe 5.5yds. At half-sized, the bag required just under 1/4yd. I interfaced it with the heaviest interfacing I had in my stash since I really didn't want to have to buy anything else. It was heavy, but the bag could use some additional structure at the base. It's a little too soft at the rounded corners and that annoys me.

The lining was a remnant from the lining of a jacket that is still in the works. It was there, within arm's reach, and just right for what I needed. So, the poly was interfaced as well, but with a featherweight fusible. I used only one pocket and I didn't add the zipper. I think I'm going to have to increase the seam allowances on the bottom of the lining since there seems to be too much fabric in the bag itself. As it is now, I haven't sewed the 6" I left open for turning the bag because of this.


I also included a magnetic snap that was in the stash and some U-rings for purses. The magnet is probably the strongest snap magnet I've ever seen. So strong that I have to dig my nail into the snap to pry it loose. I can totally see myself tearing the bag one day just trying to get it open!

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
As I said, I shrunk the pattern 50%. Also, I added some decorative stitching to the seams with black embroidery thread. It's like baseball stitches, but better :) I was really quite happy with how it turned out. The stitching somehow improved on what otherwise would have looked like a cheap little bag. Also, I didn't include any feet. Really, it's too soft to stand on it's own anyhow. I'd be open to recommendations to change this.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I think I am going to *have* to sew it again. I went through a period where I was buying random fabrics that I liked in 1 yard pieces. Really, what else can you do with 36" of aqua corduroy or butterfly brocade? Not big enough to make a skirt and even if it were, I don't know that I'd want to wear that anyway...

Conclusion:
It's a cute little bag that gives some room for play. Next version, if I do indeed make one, will be redrafted to have a zip opening. I think that would be an improvement on the recommended snap. If I had some kind of faux or real skin, I would definitely use it for this bag. Now that I've made it, I can see it's fairly simple to put together and embellish. Great pattern!

Sewing Class, Part I

In my last post, I mentioned that I have signed up for a sewing class at the community college. It meets once a week for about 3.75 hours (I think that length is just right, actually) and my classmates are a mixture of design majors and ladies from "the community." We have one student that is studying to be a tailor! How cool is she?! This promises to be a great learning experience because the instructor is going to try to incorporate lessons for her as well, which will include classic tailoring techniques starting with jacket construction. Total cost for 3 credits was $210.

The professor is an interesting man. He's told us that he learned to sew in a couture house and then went on to the Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC. Prof. S- (not to be revealed unless he says it's ok) is very hands on and is well versed in industrial sewing techniques.

In the class, we will be making a skirt, pants, and jacket, starting with the skirt. Because of our tailoring student, Prof S- has allowed us the option of drafting our own pattern or use of a commercial pattern. The skirt will be straight, lined with no waistband, approx knee length, have a vent, and invisible zipper. The first lesson described how to create a lining pattern from the skirt pattern. (I'll post about this method if folks are interested.)

Other topics covered included a review of the following:

• to find the proper WAIST, have your client bend slightly to either side and the little fold that appears is the natural waist. This could be above or below the bellybutton. Wearing ease at the waist should be 1/2 inch.
• to find the HIP, find the widest part of your client's bottom. RTW usually has the hipline 7-9" below the waist, but many people vary from this. You should look at your client's profile head on and also in profile and find the widest part and take this measurement. Wearing ease is 2 inches at the hip, even in slim fitting garments.
• HEM lines are measured from the floor up. This ensures level hems that are perpendicular to the floor. You would find the point where the garment will end and then measure from this mark to the floor. If it's 30" for example, measure 30" from the floor all the way around.
  
• 1" seam allowances in side seams for custom garments, 3/8 - 5/8" for other seams. For custom gowns (think wedding), many designers will leave 4-5" inches, since it's easier to cut out a seam allowance than it is to recut an entire garment.

The recommended text is Connie Crawford's text Guide to Fashion Sewing, 4th ed. Prof. S- says it the best book of its kind available. After perusing his copy, it looks more comprehensive than Reader's Digest or Vogue's guide. The drawings (no photos) are illustrative and clear. I'm not certain if I'm going to buy it, however. I'll probably bring in my book and do a more thorough comparison.

The following tools are required:

• 2x18" gridded, transparent ruler
• drafting square (triangle with 45 &90 degrees)
• measuring tape
• #2 pencil
• 2 pairs of scissors (for fabric and paper)
• tracing paper
• thimble (I guess this means we'll be doing some hand sewing!)
• bobbins for the chosen machine
  

We can bring our own machine or use one of the schools. There are a number of machines available for use; I noticed Viking, Bernina, Pfaff, a few industrial Jukis, and a handful of sergers including an industrial.

Next class we will be learning how to insert an invisible zipper the "hard" way and the "easy" way. The hard way promises to look more couture and the easy more dept store RTW. All in all, I'm glad I signed up :) I expect to learn a lot.

Lifelong Learning and Forever Fur continues...

Congrats to Sarah who correctly identified that the lining piece was more like the front and not the lining. As I had stated, this is largely due to my own inexperience, but I must also give credit to Burda WoF's lovely instructions as well. With regards to the lining, it stated "cut piece 1 less the width of the facing." The pattern piece has a facing fold line marked, so that's basically where I cut the lining. I realize what I *should* have done was fold the facing piece back onto the front piece and the resulting curve would be the seam line for the lining. See the difference below? Live and learn...
Now, I had to remove what seemed like an awful lot of fabric, but it made sense to do so because there really was a huge amount of excess when I had first basted in the lining. That was the first thing that clued me into my pattern cutting error. I could understand there being some overlap at the hem, but none of the jackets I own had that sort of feature at the facing.

Fortunately, there seems to be *just* enough seam allowance left not to disrupt my very first welt pocket! At first I tried to follow the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, but it was rather weak in its instructions. Of course I then had to surf the web to find what I needed. Honestly, I don't know what I would do if I didn't have the internet. I guess only sew napkins and pillow cases?? Fashion Incubator has a great tutorial on how to do the double welt pocket, but she doesn't address the application of the pocket bag. Her's is just the welts. Debbie Cook's Tutorial on the Palmer/Pletsch method includes the pocket bags and was a bit easier to follow for me. I think it looks pretty nice for my first try, and with really slippery fabric too boot. Live and learn...
In that vein, and because I love being a student, I have signed up to take a sewing class at the local community college! They have a fashion design and marketing curriculum that seems fairly comprehensive. I'll be taking the Advanced Sewing Techniques class and I'm *ridiculously* excited about it. Time seems to be moving slowly this afternoon because I can't wait for 6pm to arrive...

What's wrong with this picture?

I know my last post said that my next post would be of the completed jacket. Well, I kind of got ahead of myself. While the jacket itself is complete, it is not yet wearable due to my own idiocy lack of experience. Anyway, I spent way too much time struggling with both the collar and facings and, eventually, the lining. Which leads me to the title of this post:

There is something wrong with this lining piece. It took me all afternoon yesterday and much of today to figure it out. This is why I still consider myself a beginning sewer.

How long will it take you?