Reason #183 to stash...or me at 32 weeks

Hey there friendly readers! So, what have I been up to? Well, currently I am what I have come to think of as *seriously* pregnant. Almost 35 weeks along and counting the days, that's for sure! Lately I find myself feeling every ounce gained thus far and, dude, creating life is exhausting work. But, truthfully, I can't really complain. Thus far it's been fairly easy going and I am feeling pretty great overall :)

So, even though I haven't sewn up very much, I have been fairly active in the use and contemplation of fabric (but what sewist isn't, really?). I had decided early on in the pregnancy that I wanted to capture the, err, magic of pregancy on film. Now, I happen to have a good friend that is also a talented photographer! Convenient, no? She came over and we set up the studio in my bedroom, making awesome use of the stash, I must say! We draped a length of black stretch poplin (5 yds worth) over the frame of my four poster canopy with dramatic results! Not only that, we draped and clipped a 1 yd piece of poly shantung for this lovely result...


There were others as well, but this one is my favorite, using a rose from the birthday bouquet my husband gave me. Now, the only thing left to do is decide what to do with it!

Back in the saddle...BWoF 08-2008-124 tunic invites reader participation

Hey there folks! I think my blog silence is now over - I've had an interesting 2009 so far, but very little sewing going on.

So what has me so preoccupied that I can't find the time for my favorite creative outlet? I'm expecting! Thus far, it has been an easy pregnancy (knock on wood with me here, people) with very little to disrupt my life except for the usual symptoms. We don't know what the sex of the baby is yet and, frankly, we're not sure if we will be finding out - so few surprises left, I say :-)

It's all very exciting and now that I am approaching the 5 month marker, I find myself growing out of my regular clothes. I don't know about any one else, but, man oh man, is it hard to find attractive maternity clothes! I am on the taller side - 5'9" and prefer a 34" inseam on my pants - and this made it near impossible to find decent jeans that were long enough! The only pants that had enough length were close to the $200 mark, which is really out of my budget, never mind the fact they didn't fit quite right in the rear. Apparently, the market for designer jeans does not include rear ends so the labels must accommodate. Who knew? Anyhow, I discovered Gap Maternity does come in long lengths, but only to 33", which means flats only, no heels. I bit the bullet, found the right size on-line and live in these jeans pretty much from Friday to Sunday.

Tops are another story all together, and this brings me to my latest endeavour: Burda World of Fashion 08-2008-124. It is a tunic style top with a drawstring at the empire waist line.




Overall, it's an interesting look. I'm about 80% completed - just permanent stitching for the sleeves (still basted but as the hard part of setting in sleeves is done, this will be quick work), hems and the drawstring left. Frankly, I'm on the fence regarding the success of the top. Typical Burda, it's super low cut - just above the line where decency would be called to question. And with the wide neckline, the shoulders have a tendency of slipping. This could probably be helped by adding bra strap holders, which might also control the neckline a bit more.

What do you think of it belted? I'm on the fence as to whether to even go through the trouble of adding the drawstring and just going with a belt for now.
I'm leaning towards the less complicated option of belt loops and calling it a day. With the belt, I think the top is quite fetching - pretty darn close to the model photo and I'm actually pregnant. I am convinced that the majority of maternity clothes are modeled by regular models with the false preggo-belly strapped on. I've been forced to conclude it's a big conspiracy to make normal women feel totally huge and inadequate in our obsessed-with-being-thin society. But, I digress...

Conversely, I could just leave the waist out all together for when I get really big.


What do you think? Drawstring, belt, or waistless smock? I have created a poll on the side bar. What say you, my public?

Pattern Review: Snuggie Baby Wrap Blanket

My former supervisor and friend had her baby shower today. Not too long ago, I used one of my 20% off coupons at Border's to purchase Amy Butler's Little Stitches for Little Ones. This book has been reviewed by others and I have to say, believe the hype! The patterns are adorable and witty, smart and sophisticated yet incredibly charming. For my first Amy Butler pattern and first baby shower (yes, it's true! I'd never been to a baby shower before!) I decided Shawnna would be the lucky recipient of a new swaddling blanket. She had two on her registry, but they were sad imitations of the Snuggie Wrap Blanket indeed. Read on for more info...

Pattern Description: A swaddling blanket that wraps around your baby, with a nifty hood and tie to keep him/her nice and warm.


Pattern Sizing: 0-3 months (approx 28" square) and 3-6 months (approx 33" square). I made the larger of the two since babies grow so fast!

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? One thing about this particular patterns is that the book didn't include clear visuals of the wrap blanket. All you could really see were the upper half of the infant in the photos - very cute, yes I relied on the line drawing mostly. It did resemble the line drawing.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, they spelled out every step very clearly, with a single exception. There was only one snafoo - I had issues with the hood. The instructions tell you fleece sides together, but it wasn't 100% clear how the layers went together so the hood ended up on the exterior. For future reference - you make the blanket sandwich as follows: cotton right side to fleece right side with the hood between, hood fleece to blanket fleece, hood cotton to blanket cotton. It could be that I was tired during this phase of construction or perhaps spatially challenged. Or, that particular direction sucked like Burda World of Fashion usually does. Either way, the fix inv0lved getting nice and personal with my BFF, the seam ripper. It took me a few tries, but I finally got it right and it looked wonderful - just like the pictures!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the hood on this blanket. The inclusion of the hood takes the design to a whole other level, in my opinion. Sure a blanket is functional, but the hood makes it truly snuggle worthy.

Fabric Used: After searching the local Joann's for suitable fleece, I decided what they offered was just too scratchy to use against the tender skin of a newborn. I left the store disappointed but decided to shop the stash instead! Lo and behold, but didn't I have just the perfect fleece already? Last year, I had purchased a few yards of Malden Mills Polartec Classic 100 microvelour in chocolate brown. Perfect! This fleece feels like silk velvet against the skin and was the perfect weight for winter here in the Phoenix desert. The exterior is a Moda quilting cotton picked up a local quilt shop that matched my fleece perfectly.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: No changes - how can you mess with blanket perfection?

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I plan on making this again, most likely for myself when the time comes. Also, there are many other babies on the way and this one received quite the reception at the baby shower, so I'll probably make it again. It's going to be hard to find something equivalent to the Polartec Fleece, but flannel would probably make a good substitute.

Conclusion: A great baby blanket all around. I highly recommend. Plus, I can imagine the possibilities as the baby grows into childhood and decides his favorite blanket must also double as a cape, which handily has a hood! Hopefully, it will last that long!

Analysis of the "Swayback," the making of V8532

In spite of my blog silence the past month, it does not mean my sewing machine has been in hibernation. In fact, it's been quite busy, sewing up a few projects. None have been completed though because of the issue of my dreaded swayback. The latest project to fall victim to the swayback, is Vogue 8532, a lovely alternative to the classic sheath. Empire waist, fitted design, and my favorite and most flattering neck line. Observe...


I've sewn up a muslin because the sheath would present serious fitting challenges that would have to be worked out before cutting into fashion fabric. In that effort, I've consulted at least a dozen sewing resources trying to establish the best and most effective (read: easiest) way to alter the pattern so that 1) I'll have this awesome dress to strut my stuff in and 2) basic alteration I can use for most similar patterns.

The swayback is my greatest fitting issue and has been the source of pretty much every single UFO in my closet. Most patterns (and RTW clothing) are made from slopers that conform to more universal measurements, meaning they fit to the least curvy denominator. So, it then falls to the sewer - or tailor if you are not sewing inclined - to alter patterns to fit your various curves and hollows. After consulting various sewing resources, the most common fix mentioned is to remove the excess fabric at the back waist by taking a "horizontal tuck" until smooth. Also, this is typically accompanied by letting out the side seams or center back seam to achieve the perfect fit.

In V8532, I tried the "tuck" method. First, I sewed up the unaltered pattern and tried to pin out the excess fabric from the back and sides. Emphasis is on "tried" because it's exceedingly difficult to pin fabric while you are wearing it as every move, twist, bend, contortion attempted pulls and creates yet another wrinkle. Anyway, I was able to guestimate well enough to determine I needed to remove a full 1" from the back waist. I did this by cutting the pattern along the waist line from center back seam to side seam. At the CB, I removed an inch and then drew a line to taper this to the side gradually to nothing. I also had to increase the dart. Here is the result; the original pattern is underneath and my alteration is on top:

Here it is sewn up, from the front and the side. I wasn't able to successfully photograph myself from behind but you can get a good idea of the issues that remain, even with my fairly significant alteration. The wrinkles on the front are because of the way I cut the front piece after the first sewing. Let's just say I can cut a straight line but curves are another matter entirely...Anyway, once I smooth out the actual patter, I expect the fronto lay smooth(er). I have a much bigger issue with this image of the side. It's just as bad on the right as the left. That wrinkle starts from the left waist and extends to the bottom of the dart. I'm not really sure how to fix it, either. Any suggestions???



What is a sway back you ask? Good question, because it is the subject of some discussion lately and people really wonder exactly what is the swayback. From an anatomical perspective, it is a condition called "Lordosis," where the spine curves inward between the ribcage and the pelvis causing stress and discomfort. It can be from general bad posture or be physiologically based. Here is a good image of what it looks like in silouhette:

The sway back affects the way clothing fits and is typically diagnosed by the resulting "wrinkles" or "pooching" at the back waist, above the hips. The wrinkles can also be caused by proportionately large hips (waist:hip ratio), otherwise known as having, well, a big butt.

In my next post, I'll be highlighting how different authors deal with the swayback. Stay tuned and please, feel free to chime in with your particular fix! I need all the help I can get!

Designing a dress...how DO they do that?

Often - especially after award shows, movie premiers, and the like - I wonder what it's like to be a celebrity and have clothes designed by masters *just* for me. Well, courtesy of the Oxygen network we can live vicariously and see how Isaac Mizrahi designed a dress for one very, very lucky starlet, Selma Blair. First the concept and conversation, then the fitting where we see the dress in muslin first, later the reveal and grand finale of the dress in action. It's an illuminating look into how a dress is designed for a personality and Isaac really seemed to hit spot on for Selma. She looked amazing, especially next to her latest co-stars, whom she definitely out-shined (photo courtesy of wire image). Not that I don't love Cameron and Christina, but judge for yourself who makes the most of the red carpet...

Dreaming of Fall 2008...The Shirt Dress

One of the things I love most about being able to sew is getting ahead of the curve. Well, given my recent spout (er, habitual) of unfinishedness, I like the idea of being ahead. So, let us venture into one of Fall 2008's hottest trends...

The Two Piece Shirt Dress

Burda model 106, from September 2007.


We have one two piece dress which features a high waisted pencil skirt and a chiffon bodice with ruffles and pleats.

Now, let's take a quickie peak at Nordstrom's and see how many retail dresses we can find to match!

In order from left to right we have ABS by Allen Schwartz, Diane VonFurstenburg, Tahari, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren



Two pieces? Check! Pencil Skirt? Check! High waist? Check! Chiffon? Check! Pleats? Check! Ruffle? Check! Need I say more? Cidell made up the Burda is just about an afternoon! And people ask me why I sew. Of the bunch, the DVF is definitely my fave... You?

What a crock! Or, how bad things happen to favorite white shirts...

First off, thanks to everyone for their warm support and condolences. I'm feeling much more positive lately and it's largely due to much mindless surfing of the internet.

In other news, I have been sewing! Lately, the sewing machine has been humming away on McCall's 5624. This is an interesting pattern, featuring a dress in two lengths - mid-knee & maxi - and a jumpsuit. That's right folks: a jumpsuit. I have noticed lately that certain starlets in Hollywood have been seen sporting the jumpsuit in various incarnations. Certainly there are those that argue a jumpsuit really only looks good on WW2 airmen, mechanics in calendars smeared sexily with grease, and Elvis. I would tend to agree and say the modern woman should avoid the jumpsuit at all costs, as demonstrated by the model on the pattern photo... Even ignoring the unfortunate placement of the starburst motifs on the bodice, the jumpsuit does this lovely model no favors by lengthening her crotch, shortening her legs, let along having to get naked to use the loo. Seriously, who wears these?

The interesting details of this particular pattern feature twisted straps, an empire waist and midriff inset. These aren't that noticeable, but if you look closely at the line drawing, you can see the twists. Also, I cut the pattern for the shorter dress out of approximately 1.5 yards of fabric - definitely a nice feature for the odd piece in the stash.

The fabric I chose is a red printed rayon challis that I picked up for about $0.80/yd when the local Hancock's closed it's doors. Score, right? Wrong! Which brings me to the title of this particular post. Now, one of the reasons we should all prewash fabric is because sometimes cheap fabric reveals itself and its evil ways before it enters circulation in your wardrobe. So, I'm sure you're saying, "Rosanne just get to the point already." There was considerable excess dye in the yardage and it has transferred color to everything that has touched it, a problem referred to as "crocking". My fingers, the sewing machine, my ironing board cover, my iron! True, the fabric is rayon and dyes for rayons are notorious non-colorfast. But still...

So Friday morning, while I'm getting ready for work I decided I wanted to wear my favorite white shirt. It fits just so and hits me in all the right places, you know? I pull it from the hanger and realize it could use a good press so I readied the iron and board. From the first touch of hot plate to cloth, I knew I was done for! The impression of my iron in red on my favorite shirt! And this is after two washes and soaks with oxygen bleach and stain remover! Just look!
I'm about 65% completed with the dress. I just have to attach the skirt and midriff lining then it'll be ready for zipper installation. So far, the bodice is "okay," neither bad nor good. The only shaping comes from slight gathers under each bodice half and and I don't believe it's bra friendly on my body. I might end up taking out the straps and resewing the pleats on the bodice and re-twisting the straps. Looking at the photo now, the right side looks slightly off. That color is really red, though, isn't it? I should have known...
So, I'm going to try to do as the infomercials do and soak the shirt in oxyclean for a while and see what happens. I'm really hoping the dye isn't colorfast on my shirt, either...