Sunday, June 3, 2007

And may I present: M5189

Drum roll please...

Yes, she is done. My first garment for the swap is completed. I started this jacket with the plan of it being the test garment, but I think it stands quite well on its own. And, on me of course :)

Making this jacket was quite gratifying, to say the least. Read on for the full review of the experience...

Pattern Description: From the website: MISSES’ LINED JACKETS: Lined jacket with shoulder pads has front, sleeves and pocket variation; jacket D has purchased trim. I made view A, the short sleeve jacket with pleated pockets.

Pattern Sizing: The pattern comes in multi-sized options: I went with AA (6-12) and cut the 12 according to my bust measurement, 34", thinking that I would likely have to size down at the waist since I find most of the big four tend to have more ease than I prefer in my garments. According to the pattern, I "should" have had 4" of ease in the finished garment. Umm...not so much. We solve such problems by being grateful the jacket doesn't really need buttons, styled as it is.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? I would say it looks very much like the envelope. In fact, I would even say it looks better than... But, I am biased since I did the hard work.

Were the instructions easy to follow? You know, my first impulse is to say that they were very easy to follow. Yes, they were easy, perhaps too easy. So easy that they left out notes on trimming seam allowances and such. So easy that I didn't make that necessary step... Well, in most places, anyway.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love, love, love that everything lined up just like it was supposed to! What a treat this was from my last jacket experience, Simplicity 4146, which I didn't choose myself (Joann's sewing III class). I mean, look, when you are making a tailored garment, one should expect to have to take extra care, manipulate fabric, maybe even curse a little bit when your fabric willfully resists your attempts to control it. Par for the course, right? WRONG! Not with 5189, people, paired with my white cheapo-depot cotton jardage.

Observe the construction of the sleeves:
Step one: baste two rows of stitches on sleeve header, between small dots for gathering. Done.
Step two: sew sleeve sides together. Easy-peazy.
Step three: with right sides together. pin sleeve to armscye, matching side seam, notches, being sure to line up large circle with shoulder seam. Gather to fit. Pin. Here is where I went awry with Simplicity 4146. Observe the beauty of the gathered and pinned sleeve of M5189:

Close - up view of how nicely the edges align. Can you believe this precision took less five minutes. FIVE MINUTES! I timed it. Amazing, I know.

Step four: Baste. Be careful of pricking yourself since you decided to stick the pins in facing outward and are therefore likely to gather some skin along with the fabric. Nice.

Step five: Be grateful of the basting stitch on your sewing machine that lets you do crazy things like leave pins in while you sew.
Step six: Remove pins, turn inside out and observe your handiwork. Admire the alignment of the large circle to the shoulder seam, knowing the permanent stitches, set 1/8" deeper, will be perfect.

Am I right or am I right? Perfection:
For those who need further convincing:

See? Sleeves don't have to be torture. I think it's all about your fabric choice, really. Natural fibers: good choice. Grey, crispy polyester: bad choice.

The collars, notches, pockets, hemline (okay, fine, it's still not done), everything were just as painless, people. Less the numerous scratches I gave myself because, subconsciously, I must believe in the adage "no pain, no gain" when it comes to sewing.

Fabric Used:
White cotton denim or twill with just the right amount of lycra to be easy wearing. Did I mention that it cost me $.90/yard? Same goes for the lining, which was part of my stash. The lining is a white cotton/poly shirting blend, also with a bit of stretch to it. I believe it's a peramanat part of Joann's collection. It's always there on the shelf. I think it's 12.99/yd regular and I marvel people actually buy it.

I believe it's a lifestyle choice never to pay retail and fabric stores are no different. My cheap little heart just loves a bargain.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made:
I made the size twelve as is, no alterations. One of the first things the instructions have you do is sew the loops for the buttons. I had difficulty turning the fabric. But, didn't I just go on ad nauseum on the willingness of this fabric to be manipulated, you ask? Well, yes, you are right, but still, I couldn't turn the stinking band so in the trash it went. This was providential, however. Since I made the size 12 as is, I was left with zero ease at the waist. This lead to my, umm, "design" change. Those buttons aren't really a necessity, wouldn't you agree?

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, and yes! I love this pattern! I don't know that I'll do the short sleeves again, but it's very cute and fairly sporty. It works well in the white. I'll just have to remember to trim my seam allowances to avoid bulk...
Fantastic pattern! SWAP worthy, I think. And, making 10 garments to match it will be a breeze!


Ariane C said...

Your jacket looks great! I think the sleeves turned out wonderfully, sometimes with the puffy sleeves I am always nervous that they will turn out *too* puffy, but yours really match great!

Lynnelle said...

Nice job! Very well constructed. I have a trouble with linings. Your jacket gives me inspiration.

Chicago Sarah said...

The jacket looks beautiful! One like that is on my to-do list but I'm a little nervous about the sleeves. Thanks for the tutorial and review of the pattern!