Analysis of the "Swayback," the making of V8532

In spite of my blog silence the past month, it does not mean my sewing machine has been in hibernation. In fact, it's been quite busy, sewing up a few projects. None have been completed though because of the issue of my dreaded swayback. The latest project to fall victim to the swayback, is Vogue 8532, a lovely alternative to the classic sheath. Empire waist, fitted design, and my favorite and most flattering neck line. Observe...


I've sewn up a muslin because the sheath would present serious fitting challenges that would have to be worked out before cutting into fashion fabric. In that effort, I've consulted at least a dozen sewing resources trying to establish the best and most effective (read: easiest) way to alter the pattern so that 1) I'll have this awesome dress to strut my stuff in and 2) basic alteration I can use for most similar patterns.

The swayback is my greatest fitting issue and has been the source of pretty much every single UFO in my closet. Most patterns (and RTW clothing) are made from slopers that conform to more universal measurements, meaning they fit to the least curvy denominator. So, it then falls to the sewer - or tailor if you are not sewing inclined - to alter patterns to fit your various curves and hollows. After consulting various sewing resources, the most common fix mentioned is to remove the excess fabric at the back waist by taking a "horizontal tuck" until smooth. Also, this is typically accompanied by letting out the side seams or center back seam to achieve the perfect fit.

In V8532, I tried the "tuck" method. First, I sewed up the unaltered pattern and tried to pin out the excess fabric from the back and sides. Emphasis is on "tried" because it's exceedingly difficult to pin fabric while you are wearing it as every move, twist, bend, contortion attempted pulls and creates yet another wrinkle. Anyway, I was able to guestimate well enough to determine I needed to remove a full 1" from the back waist. I did this by cutting the pattern along the waist line from center back seam to side seam. At the CB, I removed an inch and then drew a line to taper this to the side gradually to nothing. I also had to increase the dart. Here is the result; the original pattern is underneath and my alteration is on top:

Here it is sewn up, from the front and the side. I wasn't able to successfully photograph myself from behind but you can get a good idea of the issues that remain, even with my fairly significant alteration. The wrinkles on the front are because of the way I cut the front piece after the first sewing. Let's just say I can cut a straight line but curves are another matter entirely...Anyway, once I smooth out the actual patter, I expect the fronto lay smooth(er). I have a much bigger issue with this image of the side. It's just as bad on the right as the left. That wrinkle starts from the left waist and extends to the bottom of the dart. I'm not really sure how to fix it, either. Any suggestions???



What is a sway back you ask? Good question, because it is the subject of some discussion lately and people really wonder exactly what is the swayback. From an anatomical perspective, it is a condition called "Lordosis," where the spine curves inward between the ribcage and the pelvis causing stress and discomfort. It can be from general bad posture or be physiologically based. Here is a good image of what it looks like in silouhette:

The sway back affects the way clothing fits and is typically diagnosed by the resulting "wrinkles" or "pooching" at the back waist, above the hips. The wrinkles can also be caused by proportionately large hips (waist:hip ratio), otherwise known as having, well, a big butt.

In my next post, I'll be highlighting how different authors deal with the swayback. Stay tuned and please, feel free to chime in with your particular fix! I need all the help I can get!

Divide and conquer, or why it's good to know your ruler...

Adding darts to a pattern than has none and needs them desperately:

After my last post, I decided to examine my best fitting jackets and the common denominator is a prevalence of shaping darts in both the front and back. So, I pulled up sleeves and grabbed my curved ruler and got to business. I had determined how much needed to be removed by pinching out the excess at my waist after basting the side seams in a curve so that it was comfortable and gave a nice silhouette. I also basted new darts, but I eyeballed it. It was crude, but illustrative, as evidenced by the following image.
Based on this photo I realized #1: that the pockets had to go; #2 the darts had to be extended up the back, at least to the shoulder blades (about mid armscye); #3 I really suck at just eyeballing darts. I mean seriously, how crazy crooked are those seams? They aren't even level...

Enter the ruler...
At this point, I did a flat measurement of the new width of the back, compared this to the original pattern piece, and found that 3" had to be removed from the waist. This was after taking roughly an inch in at the waist by changing the side seam (meaning, I went from a basically straight seam to a nice curve by indenting 1/2" on each side at the waist and tapering to almost no seam allowance at the very bottom of the hem).

Shaping the back, or how to take in 3 inches gracefully:
As I was limited by not having a CB seam, I thought two back darts would be both visually appealing and balanced. For a total reduction of 3", that would be 1.5" on each side. On the pattern piece, I added two 18" fish eye darts to the back first. For placement, I found the center back then the center of each side, right and left. Using my ruler, I drew the lines on the pattern, starting from the bottom hem and extended to the top edge of the pattern piece. I measured up 18" from the bottom hem on the left side and marked. I had already marked out the waist line, so at I centered 1.5" (.75" on either side of my vertical line) and marked. Using my curved ruler, I drew out the legs of the dart.

I unpicked all of the seams I had sewn so that I had only the back piece in front of me and could lay it flat. Using a chalk pencil, I copied all the markings from my pattern piece to the wrong side of the fur. I sewed the darts, then basted the side seams, following the curve I had established earlier. I basted the shoulders and tried on once again to see if I was successful.
Much better, right? No more pockets, but that's okay. The waist looks good and, despite the little ripple at the waist (I have to learn to stand straight but I was operating the camera by remote control and had to move fast), it really does lay well. You can see the changes much more clearly on the lining. Note an ease pleat has been added, as well.


Adding front darts...
Having fixed the back, I could now move to the front, which also needed attention. I knew pretty much right away that I would have to add an additional dart under the bust from the side seam. This was easily done and I grabbed my now much loved curved ruler and chalk pencil. I marked my new darts on the pattern piece. Once more, I unpicked the shoulder and side seams so that I could lay the pattern piece flat. I transferred the markings and sewed the new darts on the front.
How good does that front look? Good enough that I permanently stitched the side seams and set the sleeves. Once more, you can see the changes more clearly on the lining.
Despite that my husband dislikes my choice of lining fabric, I think this is turning into a very cute little project! When I modeled my progress, my husband tried to calculate how much I could sell it for on eBay. I encouraged him to sell an old flashlight-type tool that he had and ever since, everything we own has been appraised for possible sale on eBay. It's more than a little amusing, to say the least. But hey, I love the lining; I think it' unusual and it makes the fur look more brown than black where every other fabric I tried made it more black. I also interfaced it because the knit backing of the fur was still rather rough and it could be felt through the lining.

Next post will be of the completed jacket... Stay tuned!

Attention: Sway Back Alert!

For a jacket that was advertised as a "fast sew project, this is really not turning out to be one, let me just say. This is not necessarily a bad thing, however, as I do have quite a bit of time on my hands currently. I cut out the collar in a manner I figured would be conducive to looking good and as for layout, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. The lining has been cut, with an ease pleat added for movement in the back. However, after sewing the side seams, I don't see that I'll have need for extra ease in the back. Check it out people:

Never mind the pocket flaps masquerading as side fins. Look at the waist! Do you see that pooch in the back right above my hips? The last time I had this bad of a fabric excess, the dress landed in the UFO pile and hasn't seen the light of day since. I refuse to let that happen to this jacket.

So, how to correct the sway back on a pattern with no center back seam? Good question, good question. Since I don't have enough usable fur to cut new pieces with a center seam that can be altered, it looks like darts are going to be my only option. The hip looks like it sits well; not too tight, not too loose. Despite that fold on the right underarm there, the upper back does fit well. That fold was because the right shoulder seam basting was coming undone and I needed to readjust the front , but the hubby just wanted to take the photo and get back to his book.

The only concern I have with darts is, well, they really suck to sew in this fur. In order to sew the bust darts, I had to cut the fabric before sewing. So I kind of feel like I just get one shot with this bad boy...Not much room for error.

Any other suggestions?